It was good to get into the car and travel through Spain again. I have been living here for the last few weeks rather than touring. This allowed by back and increasingly my badly injured left shoulder to settle as well as they could but I needed a leg stretch and so did the Mazy. Cordoba is only 50 miles or so from here and the motorway is straight and clear. The drive passes miles and miles of olive groves laid out in such regularity that the trees could be ranks of soldiers doing drill. The weather has not been good in Spain for some weeks now and although the temperature was over 30c it did not feel warm and I don’t sweat at such temperatures anymore. I gave the Mazy her head in places and the motorway disappeared under her wheels.
I found a place to park about 2 miles away from the historic centre and walked the rest of the way. It occurred to me that it would be easy to lose my car in this city.. The modern gave way to the narrow streets of the old street pattern and several very old buildings appeared and then disappeared as I got closer to the centre.
I never use a map when exploring places/cities. I know what there is to see in these historic places and I just continue on until I find them. I have all the time in the world. Therefore, almost by accident I came across a very large building that was clearly built in the time of the Moors. The Arabic designs, arches and rich colours mimicked those I had seen in the bar in Rute on the night of my birthday. I found the entrance to this place by simply following the tourists. One thing about travelling this time of year is not only is it “cooler” but the crowds don’t feel imposing on you and I like my personal space in such places. This was the Cathedral. La Catedral de Cordoba, Santa Iglesia Cathedral. This building not only has national importance but world importance and immediately you can see why. I have a thing for churches and cathedrals (weird considering I’m an atheist). I have visited the cream of Irish, English, French-Norman cathedrals and churches and they all have their charm. This place is different from all of those. This place was formally a mosque when the liberal Moors ruled this part of Spain and when the Christians defeated them nearly a thousand years ago they took over this building and made it a Christian place of worship. I have read that this is the biggest cathedral in the world and I can believe it. Its footprint is huge!
Before I became a Change Manager and sat behind a desk writing e-mails and reading very long, very boring project descriptions all day I was a telecommunications engineer. Before I retired I had worked on many large and expensive projects that often took years to complete. When I look at churches and cathedrals I always try to imagine myself as the man who has been asked to create these magnificent structures. I imagine the thousands of people and the skills required to build the fabric of the building. I imagine the funding discussions. I imagine the stone masons hard at work designing the building so it will last a thousand years or more. My practical nature limits me however. My skills are all about understanding the relationship between time, cost and quality. I don’t have an educated eye for art. I also have never been motivated by God. The Cathedral at Cordoba is a piece of art motivated by the adoration of God from two radically different perspectives and that is why it is spectacular and probably unique.
The interior is Moorish. The arches, the colour and the space of this building is overwhelming when you first see it. This size of this cathedral is every bit as amazing as the scale of Pompeii. The contrast between the Moorish influence and the Catholic opulence is stark. The photo’s I hope to post do not do it justice despite the fact I have an excellent, high quality camera.
(Some of you have asked what camera I’m using and I have a Sony NEX 5 with an 18 to 80mil Sony telephoto lens As well as still it also takes 1080i HD video and is the smallest and best quality hybrid compact on the market. It uses a full size DSLR sensor not the smaller compact 3 3rds (or whatever). It’s rugged and the battery gives long life and it is a doddle to download the pics/video. I don’t use the Sony software. I just let windows do it – nice and simple and quick. I use the auto setting and the pics shot inside the very dimly lit interior of the Cathedral were shot without a flash. The low light capability of this camera is probably its standout future. Well recommended. I would take a photo of it but..er.. Even this camera can’t do that!)
After the Cathedral I went on to see the Roman bridge, arch and fort. The later has several high quality mosaics and the photos do not do justice to their completeness or beauty.
After several hours without a drink (mid afternoon it hit 34c) I decided to walk back to the car. After an hour I’m lost in a residential part of Cordoba! So I stop, go back to the historical centre and start again. This is mid afternoon when even the locals are taking the shade or sleeping in their cool houses! I now have Sciatica in both legs and I hadn’t eaten all day and only drank a cup of tea and can of diet coke. To cut a “blistered feet story” short I found it in the end! After cranking up Pearl Jam’s “I’m Still Alive” I drove home. I have listened to that song many, many times on this trip.
Now the bad stuff. This trip was always going to be a challenge and I have been away for two months now. It was either now or never. Cordoba has taken a lot out of me. I still have Granada to do before my trip is complete but I am starting to wonder if I will make it. Sleeping has been difficult for several days and even drinking no longer helps. I think I need to spend a few days in bed to let things settle. It’s very frustrating with so much to see and do but I have to stop behaving normally now before I hurt myself – I know the signs. I just want to shout with the frustration of it.
More to follow.
Hi!
ReplyDeleteI really liked your blog!
Keep up the good work!
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